Restaurant Reviews: New Soul Food in Paris

Photo © Facebook, New Soul Food

Even during a year of historic disruption, the Parisian restaurant scene continues to evolve in intriguing ways. One of the most interesting new trends in this turbulent time is the emergence of several new African and Caribbean restaurants in the French capital. One of them is New Soul Food, a relaxed dining experience that was recently opened by Canal Saint-Martin in the 10th district by Cameroonian-Guadeloupe chef Rudy Lainé, who previously worked at Fauchon, Le Grand Véfour and Laurent. in Paris, and his brother Joël, a pastry chef by training.

There have always been a few African and Caribbean restaurants in the French capital, but until now, these cuisines have never broken into Parisian culinary habits. With the inventive hybrid menu of contemporary French African and West Indian dishes on offer at New Soul Food, that looks set to change.

The menu includes a smart contemporary list of what the brothers describe as Afropean Cuisine (Afro-European). It includes dishes like herbed braised chicken with attiéké (cassava semolina with sundried tomatoes and herbs) and yassa sauce, which is made with onions and lemons; an Afropoke bowl with grated grated chicken, kidney beans, roasted corn, plantains and a creole sauce (peppers, tomatoes, onions); and Afrobassa, or spicy prawns on a skewer with m’bongo tchobi (an earthy and spicy black tomato sauce from Cameroon). Hearty and full of flavor, these dishes constitute an original and very satisfying meal, and if the weather permits, you can also buy them to take away, to taste on the banks of the Canal Saint-Martin.

Address:

177 quai de Valmy, Paris 7501. Tel. +33 06 26 83 02 06. Average à la carte € 20. www.newsoulfood.fr

From France Today magazine

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Michael M. Tomlin

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